Incremental Build Instructions:Frame

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Introduction

This guide will show you the steps to build a dual Z motor Hypercube Evolution. Modify the steps as needed if you are building the single Z motor version.

All measurements given on all phases of the incremental build process guide will be given according to the "standard" 300x300x300 build dimensions. If the actual build differs at all, it will be noted.

The build shown in the pictures below differs slightly from the standard build. It was configured using a 310mm Y Axis so that all X and Y 3030 Extrusion pieces are 420mm. This simplified the ordering and frame building process slightly by not needing to keep track of two similar but slightly different sized pieces.

If anything in these instructions is unclear, refer to the reference design here if needed:

Materials Needed

Required

Parts to Purchase

  • All 3030 Extrusion Pieces
    • 4 * 420mm 3030 Extrusion
    • 6 * 410mm 3030 Extrusion
    • 4 * 500mm 3030 Extrusion
  • 40 * T Slot Hammer Nuts for 3030 aluminum profile with M5 threads
  • 40 * M5 x 10mm Screws
  • 20 * T Slot L Type 90 degree 3030 Inside Corner Brackets (with screws)
  • 8 * 3030 Corner Connector Bracket

3D Printed Parts

These models are available on the Thingiverse page.

These parts could all be added later, but this guide will install them on this build phase.

  • 2 * Z_Motor_Mount (Note, I had to print this part at 103% to make it fit without forcing it. One piece I successfully forced into place at 100%, but the other broke when I was trying to squeeze it into position so I reprinted at 103% and it fit easily.)
  • 2 * Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_-_Right
  • 2 * Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_-_Left
  • 2 * Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_-_Double_Z_-_Right
  • 2 * Z_Axis_Linear_Rail_Bracket_-_Double_Z_-_Left

Optional

3d printed spacers:

Step By Step Instructions With Pictures

Frame-1.jpg
Insert one of the internal L brackets into one of the (500mm) Z axis pieces of 3030 aluminum extrusion (all extrusion used on this page is 3030 so it won't be differentiated from now on). The outside edge of the L bracket should be 10mm from the end of the the extrusion. Use a printed spacer or a measuring device to measure. All X and Y extrusions used for the bottom of the printer should use the same 10mm measurement. Tighten the grub screw so the L bracket stays firmly in place.


Frame-2.jpg
Slide a piece of your (410mm) Y axis extrusion onto the other end of the internal L bracket from the previous step. Make sure it is flat against the Z axis extrusion. Tighten a grub screw into the other hole so the two pieces of extrusion now make a rigid joint.


Frame-3.jpg
Repeat the two steps above, putting a piece of X axis extrusion at a 90 degree angle from the Y axis extrusion onto the same piece of Z axis extrusion. You should end up with 3 pieces of extrusion, one X, one Y, and one Z, all at 90 degree angles from each other. Tighten all grub screws as you go.


Frame-4.jpg
Continue creating the bottom of the frame by putting an L bracket into another Z axis extrusion and slide the other end first X axis extrusion used into it. Attach another Y axis extrusion to this Z axis extrusion, making sure it goes in the same direction as the first Y axis extrusion from above.


Frame-5.jpg
With the two remaining Z axis extrusions, connect them with two internal L brackets and a piece of X axis extrusion. Attach one additional internal L bracket to each Z axis. Both brackets should be pointing in the same direction.


Frame-6.jpg
Join the first assembly and the second assembly by sliding the exposed L brackets into the two pieces of Y axis extrusion. Make sure it's as square as possible, and tighten all grub screws. You should now have an assembly with all 4 Z axis extrusions standing vertically, connected by the 2 X and 2 Y axis extrusions.


Frame-7.jpg
Using an external Corner Connector Bracket, 2 T Slot Hammer Nuts, and 2 M5x10mm screws for each corner, attach the Corner Connector Brackets. A bracket will be located at each Z axis extrusion, connecting to the X and Y extrusions that meet at that corner.

Perform this operation by sticking a screw through each hole in the Corner Bracket Connector and then begin threading a T Slot Hammer Nut onto the screw just far enough for it to stay on the screw. When both screw/T Slot Nut combos are in place on a Connector, rotate the nut so it can fit through the channel in the extrusion a bit away from the corner. Push it into the channel, and slide the Bracket toward the corner. Rotate the other Hammer Nut so it can fit through the channel its corresponding extrusion and push it in. Begin turning the screws until they make the Hammer Nut turn catch on the extrusion. You may have to pull slightly on the Bracket while turning the screw to get this to happen. Move back and forth between screws as needed until they both catch. Tighten both screws fully.


Frame-8.jpg
Attach the Corner Connector Bracket at all four corners. The bottom of the frame is now completed.


Frame-9.jpg
Now we will attach the internal Y crossbar. Take a new piece of Y axis extrusion and put two internal L brackets into the same slot on opposite sides. Make sure to orient the L brackets so that they can't slide toward the center of the extrusion once the outer leg gets to to the edge of the extrusion. Insert grub screws in both L brackets. Do not tighten all the way as you may need to move them in the next step. It may help to turn the frame on its side for the following step.


Frame-10.jpg
Slide the piece from the previous step into two of the Z axis pieces that are connected with a piece of Y axis extrusion. Slide the new Y piece down until it is 130mm from the top of the extrusion (100mm from the bottom of the Y axis piece that will eventually be placed above it). Tighten all four grub screws once the crossbar is in the appropriate place.


Frame-11.jpg
Repeat the previous two steps, putting the crossbeam between the other two Z axis extrusions.


Frame-12.jpg
Attach the remaining two X and two Y axis extrusions. For each of these pieces, first attach two internal L brackets just as you did for the Y axis internal crossbeam. Making sure that X extrusions go in the same slots as the X extrusions at the bottom of the frame, and likewise with Y extrusions, insert the remaining pieces at the top of the frame. The outer edge of the remaining extrusion pieces should line up with the top of the Z axis extrusion.


Frame-13.jpg
After repeating for all four sides, all 3030 extrusion pieces should now be fastened together to form the frame.


Frame-14.jpg
Attach the remaining four Corner Connector Brackets the the top of each Z axis, just like you did for the Corner Connector Brackets at the bottom of the frame before.


Frame-15.jpg
Note, attaching the 3d printed parts at this point may make the printer look cool if you're waiting for the next phase of parts, but they will most likely get in the way for later steps and in all reality you probably should wait.

Prepare to insert a Z Motor Mount by threading a M5x10mm screw and T Slot Nut combination through the fully closed holes in the part. These pieces attach to the Y extrusions at the bottom of the frame, centered between the two Z axis extrusions.



Frame-16.jpg
Push the Hammer Nuts from previous step into the slot on the vertical edge on one of the bottom Y axis extrusions, the one facing toward the inside of the frame.


Frame-17.jpg
Take two new Screws and two new Hammer Nuts and begin threading one Hammer Nut onto each Screw. Insert one Hammer Nut into opposite ends of the upward facing slots on the Y axis extrusion that you inserted the Z Motor Mount into on the previous steps. Slide each Screw into the open Screw hole facing it. Center the Z Motor Mount between the two Z extrusions. The edge of the part closest to the Z extrusion should be 122.5mm from the Z extrusion on each side. Tighten all screws on the Z Motor Mount.


Frame-18.jpg
Turn the frame on its side so that you can work at it from the bottom. Using the Screw and Hammer nut techniques from the Z Motor Mount steps, attach the Z Axis Linear Rail Brackets to the bottom Y axis extrusions. The bottom pieces are the shorter versions of each. Once again, the Screw/Hammer Nut that goes through the fully enclosed hole is inserted into the internal face of the Y extrusion. The Screw/Hammer Nut that goes into the open screw hole is attached to the bottom edge of the frame. The right and left pieces are mirror images of each other, so make sure to use the right piece. The piece is in the right position if the open end of the open screw hole is facing away from the Z Motor Mount. Align each piece so that the flat edge closest to the Z extrusion is 92mm away from the Z extrusion.


Frame-19.jpg
Repeat the previous step with the remaining Z Axis Linear Rail Brackets (the tall ones), attaching them to the top of the Y Axis crossbeams (not the very top Y axis extrusions). These pieces are also mirror images. The side with the angled edge touching the Y extrusion goes toward the middle of the Y crossbeam extrusion. This time the Screw/Hammer Nut that goes through recessed screw hole is inserted into the top slot on the Y crossbeam extrusion. The screw for the open slot of the Linear Rail Bracket goes on the inward facing Y crossbeam extrusion face. Slide the screw into the slot at the same time as you slide the top Hammer Nut into the upward facing slot on the extrusion. The flat edge extending out from the Y crossbeam extrusion should be 98.5mm from the Z extrusion. The large hole on each of these pieces should line up vertically with the corresponding hole on the piece bottom Z Axis Linear Rail Bracket at the bottom of the frame. It doesn't have to be perfect now, you will likely end up adjusting all of these pieces when you attach motors and rods in future build phases.


Frame-20.jpg
Congratulations! You now have a rigid frame that looks very cool if you selected a good combination of extrusion and filament color. If you ordered all of your parts at once, move on to the next step. If you are buying parts in phases, you can now have daydreams about your new 3D printer frame someday actually printing as well. Good job!


Alternative Options

  • If you got black anodized extrusions, spray paint your external corner brackets black to match.

Sources For Supplies

Part(s) Sources Used Successfully


3030 Aluminum Extrusion
  • Misumi USA - Misumi in the USA ships within a few days and the pieces are all precisely cut. To order, select options on the left side of linked page until you have the exact type of extrusion you want. This page's build used the following options: HFS, Black Anodize, A6N01SS-T5 Aluminum Alloy, Configurable Dimension (order multiple times after changing dimension for each part needed), HFSB6-3030. For a 300x310x300 Hypercube Evolution build the overall price for the whole order when combined with the 2020 Extrusion was $89.90 + $14.54 shipping ==> $104.44 in 08/2017. More for the parts than ordering from China, but shipping is far cheaper and the parts arrive within days.


T Slot Hammer Nuts for 3030 aluminum profile with M5 threads


M5 x 10mm Screws


T Slot L Type 90 degree 3030 Inside Corner Brackets (with screws)
3030 Corner Connector Bracket